Our “Epic” Story
Introduction to the Blog
Maybe I should have written a book? But then where will all my videos and photos go? They are such an important part of the story and have been requested by many news reporters, writers, and documentary film makers. Also writing a book or producing a film takes a long time and knowledge I don’t have. I’m an artist at heart and art is where I will put the majority of my energy. Still, I’m compelled to not let what I’ve documented and collected go unshared. I’m using this blog to record our part in the historic events during the coronavirus pandemic. It may take some time to put it all down in photos, videos, and writing, day by day, between studio work, of course. I’ll start at the beginning when Paul and I, brother Pete and sister-in-law Cindy, arrive in Tokyo and spend a few days exploring the city. Next we have a lovely cruise on the Diamond Princess and visit Kagoshima and Okinawa, Japan, Hong Kong, HaLong Bay and DaNang, Vietnam, and Taiwan. It was an awesome and enjoyable trip, although it was foreshadowed by signs of the coming Coronavirus. From quarantine on the Diamond Princess, to evacuation by the U.S. government, to quarantine on Lackland Air Force Base, to being detained by an Emergency Medical Order by the State of Texas, flying home to self-quarantine in NY, and finally to New York State on Pause, Executive Order Syracuse, NY. I write this introduction on June 5th, 2020, four months since our quarantine on the Diamond Princess began.
The blog posts start with the most recent at the top. To read in chronological order, start with the oldests posts at the bottom.
HBO Documentary
Paul and I haven’t been in the world or local news for quite some time now. Thank god! After March, and the end of our newsworthy events, there has still been some interest from writers and documentary filmmakers in using my footage and/or interviewing us. We did interviews with the BBC and Vanity Fair, but haven’t heard anything from them since. Fuji TV was the last broadcast I know with our footage and interview, dubbed in Japanese.
Recently, I’ve been working with the wonderful director, Hannah Creek Olsen, on our part in an HBO film documentary about the Coronavirus on the Diamond Princess. We have been relaying photos, videos, and our story by email, phone, and Zoom to Hannah and her colleague Emily for the last few months. I’ve loved the communication, getting to know a little about Emily and her family, and life in NYC for Hannah. Emily will be moving on to another project as a director. Congrats Emily!
This week, Hannah and a small crew, drove up from NYC and formally filmed an interview with Paul and I, in our home in Syracuse, NY. We were excited and a little nervous, but they were wonderful and made us feel comfortable. It was a long day since they arrived at 10:30 AM and left at 4:30 PM. The crew, especially the camerawoman, did the work that usually would be done by more people, for example, sound and lighting. Because of Coronavirus HBO is limiting the amount of people on set. We all wore masks, except Paul and I during the filming, and kept a social distance when possible. We really enjoyed seeing the process and care taken setting up the scene in our living room and the portrait shots.
When all was set up, Paul and I perched on two chairs, took off our masks and prepared to tell our story. Hannah was skilled in making us feel comfortable and asking questions that got to the heart of our experience. She was encouraging, empathetic, and a wonderful interviewer. She sat next to the camera and communicated with her facial expressions and her hands, to avoid interrupting the interview audio. I like talking about our “epic story.” Why we wanted to go to Japan, how we decided to take the cruise, the places we visited, the fun we had. It gets a little more emotionally challenging when we talk about Coronavirus and quarantine aboard the Diamond Princess, but it’s still an adventure we made the most of. Then we get to the part I don’t like to recall, the trauma of the evacuation flight to the USA and learning we were sharing the same airplane air as unfortunate citizens who had tested positive for the Coronavirus. It gets emotionally difficult reliving the uncertainty, fear, exhaustion, and anxiety of that long, long, night.
After the interview, we were both very tired and my sleep that night was a bit disturbed with negative images. Despite this, I think it’s important that we tell the hard parts of our experience. We’re part of history, being among the first Americans to encounter Coronavirus and the pandemic. I hope the world and the USA learn from this experience we have shared.
The filming today, working with HBO professionals, was an interesting experience. Here they are in Syracuse, when they have filmed and interviewed people around the world for this project. The bits and pieces we have heard about sound fascinating. We’re honored and can’t wait to see the documentary. We will be invited to the film’s premiere. I’m so excited!
Thank you so much Hannah, for giving us the chance to tell our story!
Sea Day
Doing the Laundry on the Diamond Princess
This morning we loaded up the backpack and our assorted bags with dirty laundry and headed down the hall. In the tiny laundromat we met a lovely young Japanese woman and her mother doing their laundry. She needed a little help figuring out the fabric softener because the directions on the machine were written in English. We managed to help her out and get her started. Then two Japanese men came in to start their laundry. Since we were so busy talking we didn’t get our clothes in the machine yet. The two men tried to figure out how to use their machine. Paul helped them to get the coin in the right place and the timer going. Meanwhile we loaded our two machines and promptly messed up the controls on the machines by hitting the dryer buttons instead of the washer buttons. They were right next to each other . Maybe we would’ve noticed if we weren’t so busy helping everyone else! We all had a good laugh and had to call on the phone and wait for the attendant to come and help us out. We had a nice conversation with the young Japanese woman and her mother who had been to Las Vegas to visit her daughter many times. They were so kind and friendly and complimented us on our “excellent” Japanese. LOL! We gave credit for learning some Japanese words to our friend Miyo.
Gorgeous Shrines
January 22, 2020,
We visited a shrine at the end of the tourist bus tour and across from the ferry terminal. It was on a hill with some lovely views. We viewed fortunes tied to plants, purified our hands, and strolled around the small buildings enjoying the scenery. If you receive a bad fortune, you tie it to something by the shrine and “leave it” there.
After visiting the shrine, we took the ferry back to Kagoshima. We had some lunch in the ferry terminal and decided to catch a public bus into the city. With help from the bus driver, we got off at the right stop for Terukuni Shrine. Kagoshima and Sakurajimaakamizucho are known for growing huge radishes because of the rich volcanic soil. Walking through a covered shopping street we saw in the grocery store walking through town. They are also known for Shochu which is a clear liquor unique to Kagoshima and is made from local sweet potatoes. We asked a local information lady where we could taste some Shochu. She sent us to a little restaurant on the second floor where we entered and asked for a table. The tables were separated by curtains and with a window at Paul and my backs. It was small and comfortable place. Ordering the Shochu was a little difficult because we didn’t know how you would drink it and the waiter did not speak much English. He finally came back with four glasses with a beverage served in four different ways. One glass was straight up and served warm , one glass was on ice with water, another with ice and seltzer, and another with ice and soda. They even sent a plate full of Japanese sweet potato tempura to our table. We left after a pleasant experience, paying ¥12,00 (about $11) The good bye included a lot of bowing, smiling and Arigato gosaimas. (because I am nice.) Lol!
Terukuni shrine
This was our first big Shinto shrine in Japan. It had a beautiful more country like feel then the temples we had visited in Tokyo. It also had a small bamboo grove. I felt like this was more like the Kamakura experience that I had 19 years ago when I visited Japan as a Fulbright teacher. I really wanted to share this experience with Paul, Pete and Cindy! It was so beautiful I couldn’t take enough pictures. I am posting some of the pictures in the slideshow below.
I filmed some video while at this shrine and am working on a YouTube video to post.
When we left Kagoshima there were a number of local people, maybe 50 (?) standing on the shore waving goodbye. They had lights and flags, waving and shouting thank you, come back soon, and goodbye in Japanese and English. It was so charming, because they started waving and shouting about a half an hour before we left and they continued doing it for about a half mile after we pulled away. It felt so sincere, but it made me laugh, it was so over the top. I kept walking in the room to tell Paul they are still waving! This will be a memory that sticks with me.
Kagoshima and Sakurajima
January 22, 2020
We are on the shuttle bus to go into Kagoshima where we will catch the ferry to go to Sakurajima, one of Japan’s most active volcanoes. Rising 3600 feet up out of the bay this volcanic island can be seen from almost every corner of the city. Paul is wondering who in our group is going to be the offering to the gods. Pete says he’ll throw in a nickel. We get on the Cherry Queen Ferry to go to the volcano.
Since I had little advance information from the Internet, we took a tourist bus that goes around the island stopping at attractions along the way. We didn’t have a map or schedule that made sense and were playing it by ear and asking other people. The first stop was a volcano visitor center where we viewed the small building of exhibits explaining the volcanoes history. I had heard of the longest foot bath, or onsen, in Japan. We took a trail to find it, carrying our purchases of sweet oranges, a well know local treat. Taking off our shoes and rolling up our pants, we soaked our feet and soaked in the gorgeous view of the water and the volcanic coastline. If the sun had been shining and the weather warmer, you could not have convinced me to move from that place!
On our second stop, we walked up a hill to a pottery studio. We bought a tea pot and five little dishes at a beautiful little pottery below the volcano on Sakurajima. When we entered the shop we were offered tea. There was another couple from Maui, and the Diamond Princess, who we introduced ourselves to . After browsing and selecting our purchases, our hostess/shopkeeper, then wrapped the pots in foam paper, added a beautiful shredded packing material, and put them in white boxes. She then wrapped the boxes in a paper that had the name of their pottery and photos of the pots they had for sale on it. A card and brochure topped the presentation in a white handled bag. The purchase was treated with such care it was like watching a beautiful ceremony.
Another stop on the bus trip was the highest you could go by road up the volcano. The view was expansive and lovely.
At the final stop across from the Ferry Terminal was a little shrine on top of a hill. See the next blog post for the remainder of the day.
All Aboard the Diamond Princess
January 20, 2020, Yokohama, Japan
(The text in parenthesis is added at a later date)
Today we spent most of the day trying to get to the cruise terminal. Yokohama is quite a distance from our hotel in Tokyo, but public transportation is the least expensive way to go and we’d been doing pretty well so far. Plus, with the ship boarding at 1:00- 4:00, we had the whole morning, right? Maybe we’d have time to visit the silk museum. Google maps lead us astray and we ended up at a stop beyond where we should be. There’s usually someone to ask directions, but they don’t always speak very good English and the directions are not always easy to understand. We ended up asking one step at a time in order to make three changes and arrive in Yokohama. In Yokohama, I almost passed out when the lady in the information booth told me that the Diamond Princess didn’t leave from the Yokohama International Passenger Terminal. What???? She gave us directions to the next subway stop down where Princess was supposed to have a shuttle to the ship. How are we to know this? (Was this foreshadowing? Don’t get on the ship? ) Anyway, in spite of this, once at the correct port, we made it onto the ship in record time. We only stood in line two or three minutes at the most. From then on it was easy sailing! (Ha ha!)
Our balcony room is very beautiful and spacious with lots of floor space for me to stretch. We had lunch, then stood on our balcony and took photos of Mount Fuji and Yokohama in the sunset. Our seating with Pete and Cindy was at 5:30 for dinner. It was pretty good and we caught part of the show. I spent about an hour in the hot tub and feel much better after the stressful couple hours we had this morning.
Part Three, January 19, 2020
After a lovely department store “bento box” lunch, people watching in the sun on the waterfront, we went for a boat ride. We took the water bus on a half hour ride from the Senso-ji temple area to the Hama Rikyu Gardens. During the ride we passed through the city of Tokyo and under many bridges. It was a beautiful sunny day, especially after the rain and cold yesterday. Arriving in the garden, we passed a beautiful branch of early cherry blossoms blooming in January, and a lovely old shrine.
We walked along the path at the Hama Rikyu Gardens, towards the 300-year-old pine tree. We expected a tall old tree , but were surprised to see a sprawling pine supported by bamboo crutches. The pine was reverently wrapped in straw skirts and was being meticulously pruned by a gardener on the ladder. The ladder was not even resting on branches but supported so it would not damage the tree. You could tell it was valued treasure for the Japanese people. This tree is one of the oldest black pines in Japan.
When I’m an old lady, (not there yet) I would so appreciate the honor and the tender care that this tree receives. Bamboo supports to hold up my old limbs, fiber wraps to to protect my skin, a fence to keep danger at bay, and many respectful admirers that visit daily.
This old lady pine’s beauty is worth every bit of reverence that she receives.
Across the park where more beautiful surprises, especially the reproduction buildings. Walking into one of them with it’s natural, simple, light wood interior gave you a deep sense of calm. It was getting colder and darker as the evening approached. Other plans would have to wait as we finished in the gardens and headed out into Tokyo towards Tokyo Station.
After a beautiful day with at Asukusa, lunch on the riverfront, the water bus ride and Hama Rikyu Gardens, it was time to find Tokyo Station to pick up our Japan Rail Pass and have dinner at the famous Ramen restaurants. Easier said then done! After having no problem navigating public transportation for the past 2 days, we got hopelessly lost for a brief period of time. Amid the tall buildings, Google Maps was not meeting our needs and even by asking directions, we couldn’t find the correct entrance to the station. We were all getting tired, hungry and frustrated. Finally we made it to Tokyo Station, which is enormous! After a few information stops for directions and a highlighted map, we found the JRP counter and a lucky table for four for dinner. Thank god! Now we just had to figure out how to get back to the hotel.
Part Two, January 19, 2020
Go to the previous blog post to see part one of this day.
Senso-ji Temple, Part Two
After the fortunes and passing through the second gate, traveling towards Senso-ji Temple, we saw the smoke and the incense. We waved the smoke towards our bodies to purify ourselves as we traveled towards the temple. Many people shared in this ritual.
Continuing the crowds on the shopping street, there were hundreds of people, maybe thousands of people, traveling the same journey. Japanese people are so polite and respectful that there is no problem being in such a crowd. To me it only added to the excitement and anticipation. This is not just a tourist trap or location, but a place where the local people and culture are living their lives.
We approach the steps to the temple and the sounds of money hitting the slots across the collection bins rang out. Some people can’t get close to drop their coins and throw them over the heads of the crowd. At 12 o’clock, as we mounted to steps, chanting began to come from inside the temple. I took a video to try and capture the magical, mystical moment. The video is posted below. My return to Senso-ji temple after 18 years met all my anticipation plus more.
Below are some pictures of other sights in the immediate area of the temple.
Hear the sounds and see the sights of Senso-ji Temple in this video from our travel journal.
Tokyo, Japan, January 19, 2020
The sun was out and a fabulous day was planned, with temples, department store picnic food, a river cruise and Japanese garden.
The sun was out and a fabulous day was planned, with temples, department store delicacies, a river cruise, and a famous Japanese garden.
From the hotel we took the subway to go towards Asakusa and Senso-ji Temple. I was there 18 years ago, so I was experiencing a lot of anticipation to see the beautiful place that I had seen on my first visit. It was such a pleasure to share it with Paul, Pete, and Cindy. We entered through the Kaminarimon Gate and strolled down the shopping street with thousands of Japanese people. The mood was festival like and happy. Paul was in seventh heaven with the wood block print store. I perused the kimono shops.
The sidestreets also overflowed with people. Men and girls, Japanese and westerners, dressed in kimonos for the day. Of course, there were the vending machines that sell hot and cold drinks among many other things.
At the end of the shopping street we passed by the five-story pagoda and a small temple. There was a small Statue of Buddha and people rubbed the statue’s head, hands and knees and then rubbed their own bodies for good luck. Paul and I felt we needed all the positive health vibes we could get, so we awkwardly, but gratefully, took our turn. We then passed under the second gate.
Paul and Cindy got their fortune by shaking a metal box until a stick came out. The stick was like a chopstick and it had a character on it that you matched to a drawer and pulled out your fortune.
Tokyo, Japan, January 18, 2020
This blog will document our art making and our part in the historic events during the coronavirus pandemic. I’ll start at the beginning, vacation to quarantine on the Diamond Princess, to quarantine on Lackland Air Force Base, to self-quarantine at home in Syracuse, NY, and finally to shelter in place, Syracuse, NY.
This is our first day in Tokyo. The beginning of the story.
Friday, January 18, 2020, From My Vacation Journal
At the hotel was minestrone soup, scrambled eggs, hashbrowns and little cocktail wieners. You could pick your beverage like, straight Tea, (spelled wrong) or café latte, hot or cold, or milk green tea. We talked with a young woman we met in the hostel who travels without her husband for 3 months a year. She was from Toronto, an international tax collector, who was a charming and interesting lady. She came out as we were leaving and asked to take a picture with us. What a lovely idea!
It was raining and cold on this day. Umbrellas. I had read in the travel sites that you could borrow them from the convenience stores, but... How do you know which ones you can borrow? We took the subway to Ueno Park. Paul bought his temple book and got his first stamp in the temple in Ueno Park.
Once upon a time there was a famous temple called Kan’ei-ji, whose 30-something buildings once covered the whole Ueno area and more. Once a burial temple for the Tokugawa Shogunate, it was a big deal in its day until the shogunate fell and most of the temple was destroyed in the process. The five-storied pagoda and Ueno Toshogu Shrine remain standing and made a photo opportunity for the rainy day. It was cold, and we were jet lagged, but it was Japan and beautiful.
We spent a good amount of time in the Tokyo National Museum, where I had visited 18 years ago. It was as beautiful as I remembered.
Some of our favorite art pieces were textiles.